London Fashion Week 2025, held from September 18 to 22, brought a burst of creativity and style to the global stage. Among the standout designers were Paul Costelloe and Bora Aksu, who presented their spring-summer 2026 collections on Friday, September 19. Costelloe took inspiration from 1960s California, while Aksu found beauty in the imperfections of broken dolls. Their unique visions captivated audiences and set the tone for a vibrant fashion week. Here’s a closer look at their collections and what made them so special.
1. Paul Costelloe’s “Boulevard of Dreams”
Irish designer Paul Costelloe transported fashion lovers to the glamorous world of 1960s California with his “Boulevard of Dreams” collection. Drawing inspiration from the iconic film Valley of the Dolls and the chic vibe of Rodeo Drive in 1967, Costelloe’s designs were all about joy and femininity.
- Playful and Feminine Designs: The collection featured short dresses, embellished minis, and shift dresses in soft colors like pale pink, yellow, and blue. These pieces captured the carefree spirit of the late 1960s.
- Signature Details: Models wore jackets with pointy collars or bows, paired with matching platform shoes. Floral patterns and frilly designs added a retro touch, while cut-out gowns brought a modern twist.
- A Happy Vibe: Costelloe described the collection as “very happy,” reflecting the optimistic and stylish West Coast aesthetic. “It’s very chic, very fresh, very exciting,” he told Reuters, emphasizing the collection’s vibrant energy.
The show, held at the Waldorf Hilton, perfectly blended nostalgia with contemporary flair, showcasing Costelloe’s talent for combining classic tailoring with bold, feminine silhouettes.
2. Bora Aksu’s Celebration of Imperfection
Turkish-born designer Bora Aksu took a deeply personal approach to his spring-summer 2026 collection, drawing inspiration from his own collection of broken porcelain dolls. His designs celebrated flaws and imperfections, turning them into symbols of strength and beauty.
- Layered and Embroidered Looks: Aksu’s collection featured dresses with intricate embroidery, lace trimmings, and frills on sleeves. Large shiny sequins adorned skirts, while see-through gloves and floral details added elegance.
- Unique Styling: Models wore layered outfits, such as tiered dresses or jackets over long blouses that hung over skirts. Bonnet hats tied under the neck, decorated with bows or sequins, gave the collection a whimsical, almost Victorian feel.
- Embracing Flaws: Aksu shared a powerful message about resilience, saying, “I feel like we are like the dolls… we have our hearts broken or we go through things. But we still kind of survive and then it becomes part of us.” He aimed to highlight beauty in imperfections, not hide them.
Aksu’s show, held at St Paul’s Church in Covent Garden, stood out for its emotional depth and delicate craftsmanship, earning praise for its innovative take on “fragile fashion.”
3. Why These Collections Matter
Both Costelloe and Aksu brought something unique to London Fashion Week, showcasing the event’s reputation for creativity and diversity. Costelloe’s collection was a joyful nod to a glamorous era, blending retro charm with modern elegance. Aksu, on the other hand, offered a thoughtful exploration of vulnerability and strength, making his collection resonate on a deeper level.
- Cultural Significance: Costelloe’s 1960s-inspired designs tapped into a sense of nostalgia, while Aksu’s broken doll theme spoke to universal human experiences of overcoming challenges.
- Craftsmanship: Both designers showcased exceptional attention to detail, from Costelloe’s tailored jackets to Aksu’s intricate embroidery and layered textures.
- Global Appeal: Their collections highlight London Fashion Week’s role as a platform for both established and innovative designers, drawing attention from fashion lovers worldwide.
4. London Fashion Week 2025: A Global Stage
London Fashion Week, the second stop on the spring-summer 2026 catwalk calendar after New York, is known for its mix of emerging and established talent. This year’s event featured 157 designers and organizations, including 50 catwalk shows. Big names like Erdem, Roksanda, and Burberry were also on the schedule, reinforcing London’s status as a hub for cutting-edge fashion.
The event, which ran from Thursday evening to Monday, showcased a variety of styles, from avant-garde to classic. Designers like Costelloe and Aksu set the tone early, proving why London remains a key player in the global fashion scene.
5. Key Takeaways from the Shows
- Nostalgia Meets Modernity: Costelloe’s collection showed how retro influences can feel fresh and relevant, appealing to those who love timeless style with a contemporary edge.
- Beauty in Imperfection: Aksu’s designs reminded audiences that flaws can be powerful and beautiful, offering a fresh perspective on fashion and self-expression.
- London’s Creative Spirit: Both designers highlighted London Fashion Week’s ability to blend tradition with innovation, making it a must-watch event for fashion enthusiasts.
6. What’s Next for Fashion Week?
As London Fashion Week wraps up, the spring-summer 2026 catwalk calendar moves to Milan and Paris, where more designers will showcase their visions. The themes of nostalgia, resilience, and craftsmanship seen in Costelloe’s and Aksu’s collections are likely to influence trends across these fashion capitals. Their ability to tell stories through fashion—whether it’s the glamour of 1960s California or the strength found in brokenness—shows the power of design to inspire and connect.
Conclusion
Paul Costelloe and Bora Aksu brought unforgettable moments to London Fashion Week 2025. Costelloe’s “Boulevard of Dreams” captured the fun and elegance of 1960s California, while Aksu’s broken doll-inspired collection turned imperfections into art. Together, their shows highlighted the creativity and emotional depth that make London Fashion Week a global standout. As the fashion world looks to Milan and Paris, these collections will continue to spark conversations about style, resilience, and the beauty of individuality.
